East Iceland: Fjords, Reindeer, and Untouched Wilderness
East Iceland is the part of the country that most visitors only see from a car window as they rush along the Ring Road. That is a shame, because this region offers something that the more popular south and west cannot: genuine solitude. The east has deep fjords, wild reindeer herds, colourful fishing villages, dramatic mountain passes and almost no crowds, even at the height of summer.
If the south coast is Iceland's greatest hits album, the east is the deep cut that only the real fans know about. And once you spend time here, you will understand why those who visit always want to come back.
Why Visit East Iceland?
The east feels different from the rest of Iceland. The landscape is softer in places, with lush river valleys and forests (yes, forests, a rarity in Iceland). Then it turns dramatic, with steep fjords carved into the coastline and mountain passes that feel like driving through the clouds.
Highlights include:
- The Eastfjords: A series of narrow, deep fjords with small fishing villages tucked into each one. The driving is slow and winding, but the scenery is extraordinary
- Wild reindeer: East Iceland is the only part of the country where you can see reindeer. Herds roam the highlands and sometimes descend to lower elevations, especially in winter
- Vestrahorn (Stokksnes): One of Iceland's most dramatic mountains, famous for its mirror reflections in the tidal flats. A must-visit for photographers
- Lagarfljót lake: A long, narrow lake with its own monster legend (the Lagarfljótsormur, Iceland's answer to the Loch Ness Monster)
- Stuðlagil canyon: A relatively recent "discovery" that has become one of Iceland's most photographed locations. Towering basalt columns lining a turquoise river canyon
The Main Towns
Egilsstaðir: The largest town in the east (population around 2,500) and the regional hub. It sits on the shores of Lagarfljót and has a domestic airport with flights to Reykjavík. Not the most picturesque town, but it has supermarkets, fuel stations, accommodation and serves as a practical base.
Seyðisfjörður: A 25 km drive from Egilsstaðir over a mountain pass, and it feels like entering another world. A colourful art-town nestled at the end of a fjord, with rainbow-painted streets, an active arts community and the Smyril Line ferry terminal connecting to the Faroe Islands and Denmark. The drive over the pass (Fjarðarheiði) is spectacular but can close in bad weather. The Wednesday art night in summer is a local highlight.
Djúpivogur: A charming fishing village on the southern end of the Eastfjords. The harbour area has been beautifully restored, and the Eggin í Gleðivík sculpture (34 oversized eggs representing local bird species) is surprisingly moving.
Fáskrúðsfjörður: A village with a fascinating French heritage. French fishermen worked these waters for centuries, and the village has bilingual street signs and a French museum and hospital that tell the story.
Höfn: The gateway to Vatnajökull glacier and the self-proclaimed langoustine capital of Iceland. If you like shellfish, the annual Humarhátíð (Lobster Festival) in June/July is worth planning around. Höfn also serves as a convenient overnight stop between the south coast and the Eastfjords.
Best Things to Do
Stuðlagil Canyon: The most dramatic basalt column canyon in Iceland. The turquoise Jökulsá á Brú river flows between towering hexagonal columns of rock. There are two access points: the east side (short, easy walk to a viewing platform) and the west side (longer hike, 4 km each way, that takes you down to the canyon floor). The west side is more rewarding but takes 2 to 3 hours.
Vestrahorn and Stokksnes: A dramatic mountain with jagged peaks rising from black sand dunes. When the tide is low and the sand is wet, the mountain's reflection is mirror-perfect. Access requires a small fee (around 900 ISK) paid at the Viking Café. Best at sunrise or sunset.
Hengifoss waterfall: The third-tallest waterfall in Iceland (128 metres), distinguished by the red clay stripes in the cliff face behind it. The hike from the car park is about 2.5 km each way with some elevation gain. On the way, you pass Litlanesfoss, a smaller waterfall surrounded by basalt columns. Allow 2 to 3 hours round trip.
Hallormsstaðaskógur forest: Iceland's largest forest (though by global standards, it is modest). Walking through actual trees in Iceland feels genuinely novel. Good walking trails and a pleasant campsite on the lakeshore.
Borgarfjörður Eystri: A remote village in the northeast corner of the Eastfjords, famous for its large puffin colony. The puffins nest on the cliffs right beside the village, and a wooden viewing platform allows you to observe them at remarkably close range. Only accessible via a mountain road (Route 94), so allow extra time. For more puffin viewing, see our puffin guide.
Wilderness Center (Óbyggðasetur): A museum and accommodation in an old highland farmstead near Egilsstaðir. The exhibitions on highland life and exploration are excellent, and the surroundings feel genuinely remote.
Driving the Eastfjords
The coastal road through the Eastfjords (Routes 1 and 92/96) is one of the most scenic drives in Iceland, but it is also one of the most time-consuming. Each fjord adds a long detour inland to the head of the fjord and back out again, with tunnels gradually replacing the longest diversions.
Key driving notes:
- The Eastfjords section of the Ring Road between Höfn and Egilsstaðir takes roughly 4 to 5 hours without stops (about 260 km)
- Several single-lane tunnels are in use along the Eastfjords. Yield to oncoming traffic at the marked passing bays
- Mountain passes between fjords can close in winter. Check road.is daily
- Fuel stations are spaced further apart than in the south or west. Fill up whenever you can, especially in Höfn, Djúpivogur, and Egilsstaðir
- The scenery rewards slow driving. Do not try to rush through this region
When to Visit
Summer (June to August): The best time for puffins, hiking and long daylight hours. Mountain passes are open and accessible. This is also the only time to reliably reach Borgarfjörður Eystri.
Winter (November to March): Quieter and more dramatic. Reindeer are more visible at lower elevations. The fjords have a moody, atmospheric quality. But mountain passes can close, road conditions are challenging, and some towns feel very quiet.
Shoulder season (May, September): Good weather is possible, fewer tourists than summer, and most roads are open. September is particularly beautiful with autumn colours in the birch areas.
Practical Tips
How many days? Two to three days allows you to see the major highlights. Add a fourth day if you want to visit Borgarfjörður Eystri (puffins) or take your time with the fjords. A single day is too rushed for this region.
Accommodation: Egilsstaðir has the most options. Seyðisfjörður and Höfn also have good choices. Smaller fjord villages have guesthouses that range from basic to charming. Book ahead for summer.
Food: Höfn is the culinary highlight, known for langoustine. Seyðisfjörður has good cafés and restaurants for its size. Elsewhere, options are limited. Bring supplies from Egilsstaðir's supermarkets.
Getting there: Most visitors reach the east via the Ring Road from either the south coast (through Jökulsárlón) or the north (through Mývatn). You can also fly from Reykjavík to Egilsstaðir (about 1 hour, several flights daily in summer).