Hvammsvík Hot Springs: Iceland's Most Rewarding Geothermal Escape
If you have spent any time researching hot springs in Iceland, you will have come across the usual suspects: the Blue Lagoon, the Sky Lagoon, perhaps the Secret Lagoon near Flúðir. Hvammsvík is different. It sits quietly inside Hvalfjörður, also known as Whale Fjord, a long narrow inlet north of Reykjavík that most visitors drive straight past on their way to Snæfellsnes or the Westfjords. That oversight works in your favour.
The setting is genuinely dramatic. Mountains rise steeply on either side of the fjord, the water shifts between deep blue and slate grey depending on the light, and the silence is the kind you do not find in any facility closer to the city. It takes around 45 minutes to reach from Reykjavík, with a regular daily transfer making it straightforward even without a hire car.
Eight Pools, All Natural
What sets Hvammsvík apart from Iceland's more commercial geothermal experiences is the complete absence of artificial infrastructure around the pools themselves. All eight hot springs are natural, carved by the landscape rather than engineered around it. Each pool sits at a slightly different temperature, and the arrangement along the shoreline means you can move between them while taking in uninterrupted views of the fjord.
The pools closest to the water's edge offer something that simply does not exist at most other geothermal sites: the visual contrast of hot water lapping against cold Atlantic shoreline. That juxtaposition is not just aesthetic. It leads directly to the experience that regular visitors cite most often.
The Cold Plunge
Hvammsvík is one of very few geothermal facilities in Iceland where you can take a genuine cold plunge into the open ocean rather than a constructed cold pool. The practice of alternating between hot and cold water, deeply embedded in Icelandic bathing culture, reaches its most elemental form here. You ease into water warm enough to unknot every muscle, then walk twenty paces and immerse yourself in the Atlantic. The shock is real. The effect afterwards is equally real.
If you are new to cold plunging, the staff are knowledgeable and happy to advise on timing and technique. There is no pressure, and the hot pools are always close by.
Steam Room and the Swim-Up Bar
Alongside the outdoor pools, Hvammsvík has a traditional steam room tucked into the facility, a useful refuge if the wind picks up off the fjord, which it sometimes does even in summer. The steam room follows Scandinavian sauna principles: high heat, simple design, and the expectation that you will step outside again afterwards.
The swim-up bar deserves a mention not because it turns Hvammsvík into a party venue (it emphatically does not), but because it allows you to stay in the water while ordering a warm drink or a cold one. On a clear afternoon with the fjord stretched out ahead of you, that is a reasonably civilised way to spend an hour.
Getting There
Hvammsvík is located on the eastern shore of Hvalfjörður, approximately 45 kilometres north-east of Reykjavík. If you are driving, the route takes you around the head of the fjord along Road 47, with the mountain scenery growing more impressive as you go.
For those without a hire car, daily transfers run from Reykjavík and can be booked directly through the Hvammsvík website. The transfer is a relaxed way to arrive: the journey through the fjord does much of the mood-setting before you even reach the pools.
What to Know Before You Go
- Pre-booking is strongly recommended. Hvammsvík limits visitor numbers to preserve the atmosphere, and popular time slots, weekend afternoons and golden-hour evenings in summer, fill well in advance.
- Bring a towel, or hire one on site. The changing facilities are clean and well maintained.
- The experience is suited to all ages. Children are welcome, and the range of pool temperatures means everyone can find a comfortable spot.
- Visiting in winter adds an entirely different dimension. Steam rising from the pools against snow-covered fjord walls is one of those Icelandic images that stays with you.
- There is a small café serving light food and refreshments alongside the bar.
Why It Feels Different
The honest answer is location and restraint. Hvammsvík has not tried to compete with the large-scale geothermal spas nearer the city. It has stayed true to its setting: a working fjord, natural geology, and a pace that encourages you to slow down properly rather than tick a box.
The 45-minute drive from Reykjavík is short enough to work as a half-day trip, but the experience itself, particularly combined with the fjord scenery and a cold plunge in the Atlantic, makes it worth building an entire afternoon around. If you are planning a week or more in Iceland, Hvammsvík belongs on your itinerary alongside the more obvious geothermal names. In all likelihood, it will be the one you remember most clearly.